厚底高跟鞋再度成為時尚，明星們正踩著高聳入雲的鞋子引領解封后的新潮流。回溯歷史，人們對厚底高跟鞋的狂熱經歷了幾個時代的起起伏伏，“社會動盪和經濟壓力大”的時期，人們對厚底鞋的興趣似乎就會增長，這背後又有怎樣的原因呢？
'The higher the better': Why platform heels are back in fashion
Heels are making a serious comeback， with stars leading the post-lockdown trend for towering footwear。
高跟鞋正在捲土重來，明星們正踩著高聳入雲的鞋子引領解封后的新潮流。
Beyoncé donned a pair of this year‘s “it” shoe —— six-inch hot pink Versace platform heels —— to an event in August， spurring an internet frenzy over the item。
碧昂絲在 8 月的一次活動中穿上了今年的“it”鞋——6 英寸的粉紅色範思哲厚底高跟鞋，立刻在網路上激起了對這款鞋的狂熱。
“People just want to feel happy again，” said celebrity stylist Nicole Chavez in a video call， adding that high heels， particularly bright-colored and sparkly ones， are part of the greater “mood-enhancing” fashion seen across the board， from clothing to accessories。
“人們只想再次感到快樂，”明星時尚造型師妮可·查韋斯 （Nicole Chavez） 在影片通話中說，並補充說高跟鞋，尤其是亮色和閃亮的高跟鞋，無論對服裝還是配飾，都能夠起到全面“提升情緒”的作用。
“We’re coming out of wearing sneakers and being in comfortable shoes， and so the jump from sneakers to stilettos is a big one，” Chavez said。 “I feel like the platform， because it is more comfortable， is a great alternative。
查韋斯說：“我們不再穿著運動鞋，穿著舒適的鞋子，所以從運動鞋到細高跟鞋是一個很大的轉變。” “我更喜愛厚底鞋，因為它更舒適，是一個很好的選擇。
”Right now， it‘s platform everything。 The higher， the chunkier， the better。“
“現在，到處都是厚底鞋。越高、越粗越好。”
But women aren’t the only ones wearing platforms。 Rapper and singer Lil Nas X often wears them with his flamboyant outfits， while Billy Porter paired his sparkling Richard Quinn gown with statement platform boots at The Fashion Awards。 ”Saturday Night Live“ star Bowen Yang spiced up a more traditional facing black suit at the Emmys with silver ones by Brooklyn based Syro， which brands itself as ”femme footwear 4 everyone。“
但女性並不是唯一穿著厚底鞋的人。說唱歌手兼歌手 Lil Nas X 經常將其與華麗的服裝搭配，而比利·波特（Billy Porter）則將他閃亮的理查德·奎因（Richard Quinn）禮服與時尚大賞中的個性厚底靴搭配在一起。 《週六夜現場》明星楊伯文在艾美獎上用銀色Syro厚底鞋為一套傳統的黑色西裝增添了色彩，而Syro的品牌定位為“人人都可以穿的女性鞋子”
Syro co-founder Shaobo Han says that the shoes have become a tool for self-expression as people increasingly challenge and blur gender binaries。
Syro 聯合創始人韓少博表示，隨著人們越來越多地挑戰和模糊性別二元性，鞋子已成為自我表達的工具。
”Being able to display that femininity （on the street） without feeling ashamed is powerful，“ Han explained。
“能夠在不感到羞恥的情況下展示女性氣質（在街上）是強大的，”韓解釋道。
A sign of the times
時代的標誌
The popularity of platforms has risen and fallen throughout history。 Ancient platforms existed as far back as 6th century BCE。 Over time they evolved， encompassing East Asian wooden styles worn by Manchu women during the Qing dynasty and the lavishly patterned geometric ones of the 16th century， known as ”chopines。“
厚底鞋的流行在歷史上起起落落。古代的厚底鞋可以追溯到公元前 6 世紀。隨著時間的推移，它不斷髮展，包括清朝滿族婦女所穿的東亞木製款式和 16 世紀被稱為“chopines”的華麗的幾何圖案款式。
Noblewomen in southern Europe would wear these ”wildly high“ platforms， increasing the length of the textiles， according to Elizabeth Hemmelseck， the director and senior curator of the BATA Shoe Museum in Toronto。 One recorded pair was as high as twenty inches。
多倫多 BATA 鞋類博物館館長兼高階負責人伊麗莎白·赫默爾塞克 （Elizabeth Hemmelseck） 表示，南歐的貴族女性會穿著這些“非常高”的厚底鞋，從而增加紡織品的長度。有記錄的一對厚底鞋高達二十英寸。
The platform heel —— which combined both a block sole and heel —— is believed to have emerged in 17th century Persia。 “The style was worn by Persian horseback riders，” said Hemmelseck。
厚底鞋 - 結合了厚底和高跟 - 被認為是在 17 世紀的波斯首先出現的。赫默爾塞克說：“波斯騎兵穿著的就是這種款式。“
Once the high heel was developed， they fell into obscurity before coming back into fashion during the 1930s， 1970s and late 1990s and 2000s。 Interest in platforms seems to grow during times of “social unrest and economic stress，” Hemmelseck observed。
之後隨著高跟鞋的發明，厚底鞋就變得無人問津，然後在 1930 年代、1970 年代和 1990 年代後期和 2000 年代又重新流行起來。赫默爾塞克觀察到，在“社會動盪和經濟壓力大”的時期，人們對厚底鞋的興趣似乎就會增長。
“Why （is it that） during the Great Depression the shoes go bananas？” she asked。 “Why during the oil crisis and the economic woes of the ‘70s （are） our shoes going crazy again？ Is there some commonality？”
“為什麼在大蕭條期間鞋子的風格會發狂？”她問。 “為什麼在石油危機和 70 年代的經濟困境期間，我們的鞋子又會再次發瘋？這是巧合嗎？”
It’s a trend that technology company IBM researched in 2011 with a study exploring why heels go higher during these challenging periods， as well as during later crises like the dot-com bubble bursting in the late ‘90s。
這是科技公司 IBM 在 2011 年的一項研究，探討了為什麼在這些充滿挑戰的時期，以及在諸如 90 年代末網際網路泡沫破滅這些後來的危機中，高跟鞋會變高。
Beyond being a form of escapism， however， platforms again rose in popularity in the 1930s due to pragmatism， Hemmelseck speculated。 Many women at the time couldn’t afford a luxurious wardrobe， so investing in an expensive platform heel that could be worn with many outfits offered a way to participate in fashion trends through a “single outrageous accessory，” she said。
赫默爾塞克推測，除了作為一種逃避現實的形式之外，出於實用主義，厚底鞋在 30年代再次流行起來。她說，當時的許多女性買不起豪華的衣飾，因此投資昂貴的厚底鞋，透過用“單品出位的配飾”參與時尚潮流的方式搭配許多服裝。
In the 1970s， the platform heel once again saw a resurgence， with the likes of David Bowie and John Travolta storming the stage with sky-high versions。 On stars like Bowie， Travolta and Elton John， the shoes presented “larger questions about the （gender） binary，” Hemmelseck added。
1970 年代，厚底鞋跟再次復興，大衛·鮑伊 （David Bowie） 和約翰·特拉沃爾塔 （John Travolta） 等人穿著超高跟的鞋子衝上舞臺。 赫默爾塞克補充說，對於像鮑伊、特拉沃爾塔和埃爾頓約翰這樣的明星，這雙鞋提出了“關於（性別）二元論的更大問題”。
Men during this period were “talking about this being a revival of （French King） Louis XIV，” who was known for his powerful， opulent wardrobe。 “Can‘t we Western men shake off this boring uniform of authority， the business suit and begin to connect with our innate masculinity through how we dress？”
這一時期的男人們“談論這是（法國國王）路易十四的復興”，這位國王以其強大而華麗的衣櫥而聞名。 “我們西方男人就不能擺脫這種無聊的制服，或者西裝，開始透過我們的著裝與我們與生俱來的男子氣概聯絡起來嗎？”
Platform heels have also developed different connotations over time —— and in some cases symbolize sex work。 Over time， it evolved into the clear Lucite platforms of the ’90s worn by strippers and pole-dancers， thanks to brands such as Pleaser， which then trickled into the mainstream in the 2000s as stars adopted them into fashion。
隨著時間的推移，厚底高跟鞋也產生了不同的含義——在某些情況下，它象徵著性工作。隨著時間的推移，它演變成 90 年代脫衣舞者和鋼管舞者穿著的透明 Lucite 厚底鞋，這要歸功於 Pleaser 等品牌，然後隨著明星將它們帶入時尚，它在21世紀初逐漸成為主流。
As for the platform heels favored at red carpet events this year， Hemmelsack said the style plays off this eroticism as well as the surge in ‘90s nostalgia。
至於今年紅毯活動中備受青睞的厚底高跟鞋，赫默爾塞克表示，這種款式充分利用了這種情色和 90 年代懷舊情緒。
Beyond fashion
超越時尚
In 2021， “dopamine dressing” has become a widely used term in fashion， characterizing the desire for bolder， brighter， sexier outfits。
2021 年，“多巴胺穿衣”風格已成為時尚界廣泛使用的術語，代表著人們渴望更大膽、更明亮、更性感的服裝。
Some of Syro’s creations —— such as ostentatious red platforms and the metallic silver ones worn by Yang —— have coincided with this trend， selling out almost immediately to the surprise of co-founders Han and Henry Bae。
Syro 的一些作品——例如耀眼的紅色厚底鞋和楊伯文所穿的金屬銀色厚底鞋恰逢這一趨勢，一上市幾乎立即售罄，令聯合創始人 Han 和 Henry Bae 感到驚訝。
“People want to feel powerful and （be） powerful。 That‘s something I think platforms really make all of us feel。 The moment you put them on， the additional five-inch height that you automatically get， you just start to suddenly see the world differently，” they said。
“人們想要感覺強大和（變得）強大。這就是我認為厚底鞋真正讓我們所有人感受到的東西。當你穿上它們的那一刻，你自動獲得額外的五英寸高度，你只是開始突然看到這個世界不一樣，”他們說。
“Living our life as authentically and as joyfully is a protest against the repression that we’ve been feeling。”
“過著真實而快樂的生活是對我們一直感受到的壓抑的一種抗議。”
