中國釀酒是歷史的產物，有著漫長培育和發展過程。概括說來，中國釀酒發展了幾千年，經歷了三級階段的變化：

第一階段是穀物發酵酒的初級階段，其產品主要是濁酒與清酒。

第二階段是穀物發酵酒的高階階段，其產品是主要為黃酒。

第三階段是穀物蒸餾酒（今天叫做白酒）的發展階段，在這個階段，蒸餾酒與發酵酒共同把中國釀酒推向高峰，其中谷物蒸餾酒逐漸成為國人飲用的第一酒種。

Chinese brewing is the product of history， with a long process of cultivation and development。 Generally speaking， China‘s brewing industry has developed for thousands of years and experienced three stages of changes：

The first stage is the primary stage of grain fermented wine， and its products are mainly turbid wine and sake。

The second stage is the advanced stage of grain fermentation wine， and its product is mainly yellow rice wine。

The third stage is the development stage of grain distilled liquor （today called Baijiu）。 At this stage， the distilled spirit and the fermented wine jointly push China’s wine making to a peak。

一、早期貴州的釀酒很原始，但具有很強的地域特色

貴州地區雖然釀酒歷史悠久，但在很長一段歷史時期內，其釀造技術一直處於低端模式，遠遠落後於國內平均水平。

然而，貴州釀酒始終具有鮮明的地域色彩，體現出強烈的鄉土風格。

唐宋以來，在中國酒史留名的“咂酒”，就曾廣泛流行於貴州全境，成為貴州的特色釀酒。

咂酒，又名鉤藤酒（或作釣藤酒），也叫咂嘛酒、蘆酒，是我國古代西南地區通用的—種獨特酒類。咂酒的分類有很多，一般是採用粳米來或麥粟等雜糧為原料，用土法醞釀而成。

在釀酒過程中，不進行壓榨和過濾，酒汁與酒糟始終保留在同一容器內，密封不動。

其飲用方式則更為有趣，人們使用空心直管，插入酒器內，用嘴吸引。所用吸管取自天然植物，有藤管、竹管、蘆管（荻管）等等。

1、 Early Guizhou wine making was very primitive， but it had strong regional characteristics

Although Guizhou has a long history of brewing， its brewing technology has been in the low-end mode for a long time， far behind the domestic average level。

However， Guizhou wine always has a distinctive regional color， reflecting a strong local style。

Since the Tang and Song Dynasties， “Za wine”， which has been famous in the history of Chinese wine， has been widely popular throughout Guizhou and has become a characteristic wine making in Guizhou。

Za wine， also known as Gouteng wine （or fishing rattan wine）， also known as Za Ma wine and Lu wine， is a unique wine commonly used in Southwest China in ancient times。 There are many classifications of ZA wine。 It is generally brewed with japonica rice or wheat millet as raw materials。

During the brewing process， the liquor juice and distiller‘s grains are always kept in the same container without pressing and filtering。

The drinking method is more interesting。 People use a hollow straight pipe， insert it into the wine container and attract it with their mouth。 The straw used is from natural plants， including rattan tube， bamboo tube， reed tube （silver tube）， etc。

咂酒：當代貴州的少數民族依然飲用。

Zajiu： ethnic minorities in contemporary Guizhou still drink it。

唐人房千里在《投荒雜錄》中曾記載了鄂湘川黔交界區的鉤藤酒：“飲以咂酒，蓋親而近之之意，此猶蠻俗也。

咂酒者，以蜀秫和麥釀之，臨飲則分受於尺許高之小壇內，注令滿，設於廬舍之中。預截細竹一枝，約三尺許，通其節，插豎壇上，旁列一盅，用盛新汲之水。客畢至，主人以器挹水注壇，乃讓齒德尊者，先就壇飲，於竹上咂之。水盡則益，以酒盡為度。”

由於酒汁與酒槽混合在一起，只有採用不斷加水的方法，才能將酒液吸盡。這種飲用方式，構成了咂酒獨有的特色。

值得注意的是，房千里《投荒雜錄》記載了“蜀秫”釀製咂酒的資訊，蜀秫即蜀黍，今天稱之為高粱。

古代的貴州較早使用了高粱為原料進行釀酒，但那時釀製的是低水平的咂酒，可不是如今的蒸餾酒。

宋人朱輔《溪蠻叢笑》中記載了貴州與湖南交界處的釣藤酒，書中這樣記述：“釣藤酒，酒以火成，不醡不篘，兩缶東西，以藤吸取，名釣藤酒。”

可以說，唐宋時期，釣藤酒曾經是貴州居民主要的飲用酒，屬於較為原始的發酵酒，釀造過程中缺少壓榨和澄清工藝。

咂酒模式在貴州流行了很長時期，直到清代，儘管貴州酒類產品已經極大豐盛，然而在各少數民族聚集的區域內，咂酒仍然保留。

陸次雲《峒溪纖志》卷中記載：“咂酒，一名鉤藤酒，以米雜草子為之，以火釀成，不篘不酢，以藤吸取……”李宗瞄《黔記》卷一也記載：“咂酒，一名重陽酒，以九日貯米於甕而成，他日味劣，以草塞瓶頸。臨飲，注水平口，以通節小竹，插草內吸之，視水容若干徵飲量。苗人富者，以多釀此為勝。”

從釀酒工藝來看，清代的咂酒比起唐宋時期並無多大改觀，土法醞釀，千年如舊，而眾人吸飲之法更是維持不變，尤其是苗族居住區，大家始終把咂酒當作民族傳統。

Fang Qianli of the Tang Dynasty once recorded the Uncaria wine in the border area between Hubei， Hunan， Sichuan and Guizhou in the miscellaneous records of throwing waste： “it’s still very common to drink wine and cover the meaning of close proximity。

Those who drink wine are made of Shu Shu Shu and wheat。 When they drink， they are divided into small jars about feet high， filled with orders， and set up in the cottage。 A thin bamboo branch is pre cut， about three feet high， inserted on the altar through its section， and a cup is lined next to it to hold the newly drawn water。 When the guest arrives， the master injects water into the altar with a utensil， but let those who are virtuous and respected first drink on the altar and smack it on the bamboo。 When the water is used up， it will benefit， and the wine is enough。 ”

As the wine juice is mixed with the wine tank， only by continuously adding water can the wine be absorbed。 This drinking method constitutes the unique characteristics of ZA wine。

It is worth noting that Fang Qianli‘s miscellaneous records of throwing wasteland recorded the information of “Shu Shu” brewing Za wine。 Shu Shu is millet， which is called sorghum today。

In ancient Guizhou， sorghum was used as raw material for wine making earlier， but low-level Za wine was brewed at that time， not today’s distilled wine。

Zhu Fu of the Song dynasty recorded the fishing rattan wine at the junction of Guizhou and Hunan in his “Xi man Cong Xiao”。 The book said： “fishing rattan wine is made by fire， not by fire。 Two Fouls of things are absorbed by rattan， which is called fishing rattan wine。”

It can be said that in the Tang and Song Dynasties， Diao Teng wine was once the main drinking wine for Guizhou residents。 It was a relatively primitive fermented wine， and there was a lack of pressing and clarification technology in the brewing process。

Za wine mode was popular in Guizhou for a long time。 Until the Qing Dynasty， although Guizhou wine products had been very abundant， Za wine still remained in the areas where ethnic minorities gathered。

Lu Ciyun recorded in the volume of Dongxi Xianzhi： “Zajiu， a rhynchophyllum wine， is made from rice weeds， brewed by fire， and absorbed by rattan。。。” it is also recorded in the volume I of Li zongliao‘s Qian Ji： “Za wine， a Chongyang wine， is made by storing rice in a jar for nine days。 In other days， it tastes bad and uses grass to plug the bottleneck。 When drinking， water is injected into the mouth to pass through the festival of small bamboo， inserted into the grass to suck it， depending on the water volume。 The rich Miao people will win by making more wine。”

From the perspective of brewing technology， Zajiu in the Qing Dynasty is not much better than that in the Tang and Song dynasties。 The local method is brewing for thousands of years， and the method of drinking by people remains unchanged， especially in the residential areas of the Miao nationality。 Zajiu has always been regarded as a national tradition。

李宗昉《黔記》記載了貴州夾酒。

Li Zongfang’s “Qian Ji” recorded Guizhou Jiajiu。

二、明清時期的貴州釀酒開始變革

明朝時期，貴州釀酒業有了大幅度變革，燒酒、黃酒、葡萄酒以及配製酒，當地都能生產，加上貴州土有的咂酒、女酒、窨酒、刺梨酒，酒類品種大為豐盛。

有明一代，貴州釀酒呼聲最高的酒類是黃酒，貴州人通稱為“春酒”。

明萬曆年間，帥機出任貴州思南知府，湯顯祖就為之寫下了《春酒篇寄帥思南》一詩：“黔中徼外若椒蘭，何如漢暑老祠官。……眼中人物悵春杯，定解春池倒載回。況復南中多醞法，無事東朝給酒媒。”詩中提到貴州的釀酒方法就有許多種。

明人謝三秀在貴州也寫下了《城南江亭學使壁哉韓公邀同參知大函》一詩，詩中有云：“空亭留讌言，山床壓春酒。”直到清朝時期，春酒在貴州仍然控制著一定規模的市場，田雯為官此地，就留有“我唯一看一回醉，消盡瓶中曲米春”的詩詠（見《貴州通志》卷四五）。

明清時期，貴州的特色酒品常見於當地詩文之中，如明人高鑑《凌元詞》雲：“彷彿如夢還如昨，葡萄滿甕醅初潑。”

由此可知貴州境內有釀葡萄酒者。李宗昉《黔記》卷二載詩云：“黔山權當子云亭，從遊願載侯芭酒。”此見“侯芭酒”一名。同書卷三又記載：“諺雲，‘清平豆腐楊老酒，黃絲姑娘家家有。’”看來，“楊老酒”也曾盛行一時，不然不會流行於民諺俗語之中。

2、 During the Ming and Qing Dynasties， Guizhou brewing began to change

During the Ming Dynasty， Guizhou‘s wine making industry had a significant change。 Shaojiu， yellow rice wine， wine and prepared wine could be produced locally。 In addition， there were local Za wine， women’s wine， scented wine and Rosa roxburghii wine in Guizhou。 There were a lot of wine varieties。

In the Ming Dynasty， yellow rice wine was the most popular wine in Guizhou， which was commonly known as “spring wine” by Guizhou people。

During the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty， shuaiji served as the prefect of Sinan in Guizhou， and Tang Xianzu wrote a poem “spring wine sent to Sinan”： “Guizhou is like a pepper and orchid outside the Central Plains， not like an official of the Han summer ancestral temple。。。 The people in the eyes are disappointed with the spring cup， and the spring pond will be loaded back。 Besides， there are many brewing methods in the Central Plains， and there is nothing to do to give wine media to the eastern dynasties。” the poem mentioned that there are many wine making methods in Guizhou。

Xie sanxiu of the Ming Dynasty also wrote a poem in Guizhou， in which he wrote “the great letter from Bi Zai， the envoy of Jiangting school in the south of the city， invited by the Duke of Han to participate in the study”。 The poem reads： “the empty Pavilion leaves words， and the mountain bed presses down spring wine。” until the Qing Dynasty， spring wine still controlled a certain scale of market in Guizhou。 Tian Wen， as an official here， left a poem of “the only time I get drunk， eliminate the spring music in the bottle” （see Guizhou Tongzhi） Volume IV （V）。

王賽時在“中國酒都醬香仁懷”中國酒文化高峰論壇上再次演講。

到了清朝中期，貴州的經濟發展極為迅速，釀酒業為之空前高漲，長期在低谷徘徊的貴州古酒，一躍而進入中國名酒的前列，實現了歷史性的突變。

傳統的貴州古酒以及新創的大麴燒酒都在這一時期顯示出強勁的走勢。

同南方各省相似，清代貴州也流行“女酒”，這是陳釀時間極長的一種黃酒。張澍《續黔書》卷六記載：“黔之苗育女數歲時，必大釀酒，即濾，候寒月陂池水竭，以泥密封甕瓶，置於陂中，至春漲水滿，亦復不發。俟女于歸日，因決陂取之，以供賓客。味甘美，不可常得，謂之女酒。”

在當時人心目中，偏遠的貴州女酒深藏不露，求索難得，似乎比紹興的女兒酒和廣東的女酒更有魅力。

貴州還出產風格別樣的窨酒，色澤紅豔，香氣逼人，堪為黔中名品。窨，指地下土窯，專供陳釀酒液之用。《續黔書》卷六記載：“又有窨酒，色紅碧可愛。餘初至黔，飲之。經日頭熱涔涔，後畏之如雲白鉤吻。問諸人，言此酒用胡蔓草汁溲也。”

按胡蔓草是一種有毒的藤科植物，少量放入酒中，可以增加酒的力度，在穀物發酵酒的酒度偏低的時代，人們都會把一些帶有麻醉效果的植物放入酒中，藉以使用快速入醉。

張澍《續黔書》記載了貴州女酒和窨酒。

在貴州各鄉社的聚會中，窨酒是珍貴的飲料。《黔中曲》有云：“迎神一曲鳴銅鼓，窨酒滿斟倒接罼。”可見，飲用窨酒的場合必定熱鬧。

在李汝珍《鏡花緣》第96回中，列有清代名酒55種，其中就有“貴州苗酒”和“貴築縣夾酒”二品。這兩種酒都是貴州馳名的上乘佳釀。

苗酒又稱黑糯米酒，是都勻府及所屬惠水縣一帶苗族同胞釀造的珍貴名酒。這種酒選用苗家農業特產黑糯米為原料，採用苗族傳統釀酒法進行釀造，酒精度較低，但酒味甜酸爽口，醇香甘美，其酒色紅亮生光，晶瑩透明。

明人葛一龍《昨日》詩“晚從晴處宿，暖酒醉苗歌”中提到的“暖酒”，很可能就是這種黑糯米酒，到清代時，苗酒之美已是海內共知。《貴州通志》卷十五《物產志》記載都勻府：“苗酒，出府屬，色紅而味醇厚。”

苗家自古視苗酒為絕品，按其族規，不得向外族人傳授，故而幾百年間，非苗族嫡系，很少有人知其釀造工藝。

夾酒最早產於貴築縣，據李宗昉《黔記》卷一記載：“夾酒，初用釀燒酒法，再用釀白酒法，乃成。”

這裡提到的“白酒”，指黃酒，系用江南釀酒術語。夾酒最初稱為甜酒釀，是當地出產的一種低度黃酒，酒雖香美而易酸敗。

到清代時，高酒度的燒酒已在貴州廣泛流行，貴築人便順勢將優質燒酒與甜酒釀進行多次勾兌，最終配製出聞名於世的夾酒。

夾，兩酒摻合之意也。用今天的話說，這是低度黃酒與高度燒酒結合在一起的混成酒。往日貴築縣流傳著這樣一首民謠：“夾酒裡面兌燒酒，夾黃酒兒多醉人。”夾酒用黃酒勾兌燒酒之後，仍然保持了原有的橙紅色澤，酒體協調，酒力增厚，別有一番高爽氣味。

During the Ming and Qing Dynasties， Guizhou‘s characteristic wines were common in local poems and prose， such as the Lingyuan CI written by Gao Jian of the Ming Dynasty： “it seems like a dream， but it’s still like yesterday， and the grapes are full of jars and fermented grains for the first time。”

It can be seen from this that there are wine makers in Guizhou。 Li Zongfang‘s second volume of the chronicle of Guizhou contains a poem： “Guizhou Mountain has the right to be the son of Yunting， and Hou Ba wine will be carried from the tour。” this is the name of “Hou Ba wine”。 The third volume also records： “as the saying goes， ’Qingping tofu， Yang old wine， which is owned by Huang Si girl‘s family’。” it seems that “Yang old wine” was also popular for a time， otherwise it would not be popular in folk proverbs and proverbs。

Wang saishi made another speech at the “Chinese wine capital Maotai flavor Renhuai” Chinese wine culture Summit Forum。

By the middle of the Qing Dynasty， Guizhou‘s economy had developed very rapidly， and the brewing industry was unprecedentedly high。 Guizhou ancient wine， which had been wandering in the trough for a long time， jumped into the forefront of China’s famous wine and realized a historic mutation。

The traditional Guizhou ancient liquor and the newly created Daqu Shaojiu showed a strong trend during this period。

Similar to the southern provinces， “women‘s wine” was also popular in Guizhou in the Qing Dynasty， which was a kind of yellow rice wine with a very long aging time。 Zhang Shu recorded in Volume 6 of the book of continuing Guizhou： “When the Miao children of Guizhou are a few years old， they will make wine， that is， filter it。 When the water in the pond runs out in the cold moon， seal the urn bottle with mud and put it in the pond。 It will not be released again until the water is full in spring。 When the woman returns to the motherland， it will be taken from the pond for guests。 It tastes sweet and can not be obtained often。 It is called women’s wine。”

In the eyes of people at that time， the remote Guizhou women‘s wine was hidden and hard to find。 It seemed to be more attractive than Shaoxing’s daughter‘s wine and Guangdong’s women‘s wine。

Guizhou also produces scented wine with a different style。 It is red in color and strong in aroma。 It can be a famous product in Central Guizhou。 Scented wine refers to an underground kiln， which is specially used for aging liquor。 Volume 6 of the book of continuing Guizhou records： “there are also scented wine， which is red and green and lovely。 I came to Guizhou and drank it at the beginning of the year。 After the sun was hot， I was afraid of it as white as a cloud。 I asked people that this wine was made with Hu mancao juice。”

As a poisonous vine， a small amount of Euphorbia can increase the strength of wine。 In the era of low alcohol content of grain fermented wine， people will put some plants with anesthetic effect into wine to get drunk quickly。

Zhang Shu’s book of continuing Guizhou records women‘s wine and wine scenting in Guizhou。

In the gatherings of various rural communities in Guizhou， wine sniffing is a precious drink。 The central Guizhou opera says： “welcome the God， sing the bronze drum， and pour the wine upside down。” it can be seen that the occasion for drinking wine sniffing must be lively。

In the 96th chapter of Li Ruzhen’s “Jinghuayuan”， there are 55 kinds of famous wines in the Qing Dynasty， including “Guizhou Miao wine” and “Guizhu County Jiajiu”， both of which are well-known high-quality wines in Guizhou。

Miao wine， also known as black glutinous rice wine， is a precious famous wine brewed by Miao compatriots in Duyun Prefecture and Huishui county。 This wine is brewed with Miao agricultural specialty black glutinous rice as raw material and Miao traditional brewing method。 It has a low alcohol content， but it tastes sweet and sour， mellow and sweet。 Its wine color is red， bright and transparent。

The “warm wine” mentioned in Ge Yilong‘s poem “stay in the sunny place at night， warm wine drunk Miao song” in the Ming Dynasty is likely to be this kind of black glutinous rice wine。 By the Qing Dynasty， the beauty of Miao wine was well known at home。 Volume 15 of Guizhou Tongzhi records Duyun’s house： “Miao wine is red and mellow。”

Since ancient times， the Miao family has regarded Miao wine as a unique product。 According to its family rules， it is not allowed to teach it to other people。 Therefore， for hundreds of years， few people have known its brewing technology。

Baijiu was the first to be produced in Guizhou county。 According to Li Zongfang‘s book of Qian Ji， “wine is used for brewing， and brewing is the first。”

Baijiu yellow wine is the term used in the south of the Yangtze River。 The wine is originally called sweet fermented rice， and it is a local low yellow wine， which is fragrant and beautiful， but it is easy to sour。

By the Qing Dynasty， high alcohol Shaojiu had been widely popular in Guizhou。 Guizhu people took advantage of the trend to mix high-quality Shaojiu with sweet wine for many times， and finally prepared the world-famous Jiajiu。

In today’s words， this is a mixture of low alcohol yellow rice wine and high alcohol。 In the past， there was a folk song in Guizhu County： “it‘s intoxicating to mix wine with alcohol。” after blending wine with alcohol， Jiajiu still maintained its original orange red color， coordinated wine body， thickened wine power and unique refreshing smell。

王賽時

中國著名酒史文化研究專家、酒史文化鉅著《中國酒史》作者、中國酒業協會“陳年白酒鑑定師”培訓講師、上海市收藏協會酒委會“中國瓶儲年份白酒品鑑師”培訓講師、仁懷市“

中國

醬酒文化傳播大使”、中國品酒師培訓機構“源坤”“酒育”專家組教授、山東社會科學院歷史所教授、北京大學餐飲總裁高階研討班主講教授、《飲食文化研究》國際學術期刊主編、國家餐飲文化一級認定師。

王賽時致力於中國酒文化的傳播事業，曾為國內諸多釀酒企業制定過文化方案和博物館方案，參加過“中國酒都”、《中國名酒志》等國家專案的認證工作、貴州茅臺股份“中國酒文化城”構建方案撰寫工作、河南仰韶“世界酒史館”設計全案工作、山東景陽岡“中國酒器酒具博物館”鑑定工作，長期擔任國內知名酒文化教育機構：“源坤教育”和“酒育文化”的專家組授課講師。

2019年王賽時教授與季克良、李靜仁等9位業內專家一起被仁懷市政府授予“醬酒文化傳播大使”，以表彰其對醬酒文化傳播所做的貢獻。王賽時教授領銜的“中國酒史研究中心”團隊，已經為國內幾十家酒業名企進行了博物館文化館設計建造、酒史文化挖掘、酒文化培訓等專業服務。

2020年“王賽時中國酒史研究中心”落成了“醬酒大使館”專案，透過“賽時講酒”與“賽時鑑酒”的課程設定，重點打造了“老酒收藏”、“名酒套裝收藏”、“酒業遊學”、“品酒培訓”、“頭部酒企聯名定製”、“酒業泰斗大師簽名珍藏”、“12香型白酒陳列定製收藏”等多個業務板塊。

並推出了“醬酒大使館館藏酒”：用王賽時教授的代表名作《中國酒史》封面為酒標，選用貴州省仁懷縣茅臺鎮7。5平方公里核心產區制酒廠優質大麴坤沙基酒，經國家級調酒大師精心盤勾，王賽時教授親自監製，確保中國酒史醬香酒的產品醬香突出，豐滿醇厚、優雅細膩、空杯留香。

Wang saishi

China China Baijiu， a famous wine history and culture expert， a wine history and culture masterpiece， “Chinese wine history”， a trainer lecturer of China Liquor Association “Chen Jiu liquor appraiser”， a training instructor of “Shanghai bottle collection year wine taster”， a Renhuai China wine collection Culture Ambassador， and a Chinese wine taster training institution， “Yuan Kun” and “wine education”。 Professor of the expert group， Professor of the History Institute of Shandong Academy of Social Sciences， keynote professor of the senior seminar for the president of catering of Peking University， editor in chief of the international academic journal research on catering culture， and first-class certified teacher of national catering culture。

Wang saishi is committed to the dissemination of Chinese wine culture。 He has formulated cultural programs and Museum programs for many domestic brewing enterprises， participated in the certification of national projects such as “Chinese wine capital” and “Chinese famous wine Chronicles”， wrote the construction plan of “Chinese wine culture city” of Guizhou Maotai Co。， Ltd。， designed the whole project of “world wine history museum” in Yangshao， Henan， and Jingyanggang， Shandong He has long been the lecturer of the expert group of “Yuankun education” and “wine education culture” in well-known domestic wine culture education institutions。

In 2019， Professor Wang saishi， together with nine industry experts such as Ji Keliang and Li Jingren， was awarded the “ambassador of sauce and wine culture communication” by Renhuai municipal government in recognition of his contribution to sauce and wine culture communication。 Professor Wang saishi led the “research center of Chinese wine history” The team has provided professional services for dozens of famous liquor enterprises in China， such as the design and construction of museums and cultural centers， the excavation of liquor history and culture， and liquor culture training。

In 2020， “Wang saishi Chinese wine history research center” completed the “sauce wine embassy” project， focusing on “old wine collection”， “famous wine suit collection”， “wine industry study tour”， “wine tasting training”， “joint customization of head wine enterprises”， “signature collection of leading Masters in the wine industry” through the curriculum of “talking about wine during the competition” and “wine appreciation during the competition” “12 flavor Baijiu display， custom collection” and other business segments。

And launched the “wine in the sauce and wine embassy collection”： using Professor Wang saishi’s representative masterpiece “history of Chinese wine” The cover is the wine label， which selects the high-quality daqukun Shaji liquor from the distillery of the 7。5 square kilometer core production area in Maotai Town， Renhuai County， Guizhou Province。 It is carefully cooked by the national liquor blending master and supervised by Professor Wang saishi， so as to ensure that the product of Maotai flavor liquor in the history of Chinese liquor has outstanding Maotai flavor， plump， mellow， elegant and delicate， and fragrant in an empty cup。